Versilia Flavors: Discovering the Tordelli of Camaiore
A beloved dish, a village competition, and a golden prize in the Tuscan hills
Filled pasta is a timeless dish, found all over the world - from Italy to Asia, from Germany to Argentina - each place with its own shape, ingredients, and traditions. In Italy alone, there are more than 70 types of filled pasta, from Bologna’s tortellini to Liguria’s pansoti.
Here in Camaiore, a charming town nestled between the Apuan Alps and the Versilian coast, the local treasure is called Tordelli: a hearty, meat-filled pasta that speaks of Sundays at home, handwritten recipes, and the unmistakable scent of ragù simmering on the stove.
Each family has its own secret version, but they all share that generous filling, tender egg pasta, and the joy of bringing people together. And every year, this simple dish becomes the star of a culinary contest: the Tordello d’Oro, a competition that crowns the best tordelli in Versilia.
In 2025, the final night of the contest was hosted by the historic Emilio e Bona trattoria in Lombrici, which also took home the coveted prize. The finalists included Ristorante Raffaello from Levigliani and Ristopasta in Camaiore—three excellent ambassadors of local flavor.
The Main Filling Ingredients
The filling for tordelli is made with pork, beef, and sometimes even a touch of prosciutto crudo. Adding pecorino cheese and garlic gives the dish an intense, traditional flavor. The dough is made with flour, eggs, and a bit of extra virgin olive oil, which gives it a soft and delicate texture but is still strong enough to hold the filling.
Cooking and Dressing
Once prepared, the tordelli are boiled in salted water and then dressed with a hearty meat ragù, which is the true king of the dish. The most traditional version uses a simple ragù made with minced meat, tomato, and a sauté of onion, carrot, and celery. However, there are also restaurants that offer more refined variations, such as a white ragù, where the tomato is replaced with a Parmesan cream and extra virgin olive oil.
Where to Taste the Tordelli in Versilia?
In Versilia, nearly every traditional restaurant serves tordelli with ragù. But how to choose where to go?
Since 2022, the local magazine Paspartu Magazine has organized the Tordello d’Oro, a competition between restaurateurs that is primarily a way to celebrate a dish that is symbolic of the area. It’s not about declaring one winner: there is no official recipe or standard, each kitchen – professional or home-based – has its version.
There are tordelli with thicker or thinner edges, fillings in different proportions, dough rolled by hand or by machine, and classic or creative sauces. Unforgettable are the Tordelli di Vittoriano from the restaurant La Dogana in Capezzano, served in white, with extra virgin olive oil and Parmesan: out of competition, but forever in everyone’s heart.
Among the finalists of the Tordello d’Oro editions, you will find:
• Ristorante Raffaello – Levigliani
• Osteria Il Vignaccio – Santa Lucia
• Vino e Merendino – Capezzano Pianore
• Trattoria Da Demè – Vallecchia
• Ristorante Bernardone – Nocchi
• Trattoria Beppino – Valdicastello
Try more than one place: each one tells its own version of this dish!
Want to try making tordelli at home? Discover the full recipe here and bring a piece of Versilia to your kitchen!